While I was continuously reporting on the award season beauty looks, Fashion Weeks came and gone and all designers are already preparing for Spring/Summer 2019 behind the scenes. Autumn/Winter 2018 will be a great season for makeup and beauty filled with statement liners, vibrant colours and sparkle with references to the ’60s, ’80s and ’90s sprinkled with some futuristic elements. It seems the woman of next season is much more confident and playful than last one, she is not afraid to show who she really is and is non-apologetic about it. Heavily influenced by the ‘Me Too’ movement this woman is empowering, inspirational who is confident enough to wear an understated, natural look but not afraid to experiment with colour or a statement liner.
Eyeliner looks have dominated the runways in all shapes, sizes and colour. Pop of colour seemed to be very popular along with polished skin and I’ve seen a lot more smokey eyes than last season too.
I selected six trends: Strong Eyeliner, Pop of Colour, Polished Skin, Smokey Eyes, Strong Lip and Glitter. In this post, I will discuss the first two only (otherwise it would be way too long) and next week I will continue with the rest.
At Ashish, the liner was really exaggerated, it was paired with metallic gold eyeshadow and a pop of orange on the lips.
Lead make-up artist Tom Pecheux designed a beautiful jet black flick at Alberta Ferretti.
The inspiration for Tom Pecheux behind the kitten flick at Emilio Pucci was Marilyn Monroe. He used Mac’s Brushstroke Liner in Brushblack along the upper lash line, Haute & Naughty Lash Mascara and a Cremeseen lipstick in Pure Zen with Clear Gloss on top.
The models’ fresh, polished skin was paired with a classic, full liner at Dolce&Gabbana.
Moschino’s make-up artist, Kabuki, went for a full-on retro, 60s’s vibe with a futuristic, Fifth Element twist. Some of the models’ faces were painted completely blue, green or pink, but there were ones with much more wearable looks evoking the iconic look of Jackie O, with black eyeliner flicks, big eyebrows, glossy peachy-pink lipstick and a flush of colour on the cheeks. I loved the cavalcade of styles, colours and influences here.
The liner was taken all around the eyes with gold leaves in the inner and outer corner to provide a nice accent to all the black at Akris:
Similarly, at Marco De Vincenzo a smudged black kohl liner was following the eyeliner. It had a really laidback feel to it with the rest of the face pared down and the textured hair.
There were a plethora of eyeliner looks in all the colours of the rainbow. Like this red one from Calvin Luo paired with a side-swept fringe and a pretty head scarf evoking an early ’60s vibe.
Loving the rusty coloured liner (courtesy of make-up artist Diane Kendal) running through the bottom lash line at Roberto Cavalli, it’s a nice contrast to the black liner on the top of the lash line. The rest of the face was kept clean finished with a natural glossy lip.
Lining the bottom lashline with a dark metallic black-green looked chic and edgy at Cividini.
Elisabetta Franchi went for a subtle yet impactful silver line on the top lash line.
I’ve seen a lot of deconstructed liner designs, like this beautiful example from the Coach1941 show. This was one of my favourites.
David Koma’s lead make-up artist Naoko Scintu created a ’60s inspired eyeliner design which, paired with fresh-looking, dewy skin, looked very eye-catching.
Jason Wu went for a minimalistic look with a line following the brow and a subtle flick in the outer corner of the eyes.
The combination of lilac and baby blue at Tibi had a fun, young feel to it. They were not the only ones pairing different colours on the top and bottom lashline so it’s a definite trend for the next season.
How fun is this look from the Jeremy Scott show? The products used were from the Jeremy Scott and Mac collaboration with the help of their Acrylic Paint and a plastic wire to achieve the 3D eyeliner ‘wings’. The neon wigs paired with geometric liner design in bright colours looked young and fun. They had a Fifth Element futuristic feel and this was not the only one (see Moschino), so it’s another definite trend.
Last but not least Prada went for a futuristic colour-pop fun with gemstones. Pat Mcgrath used her yet to be launched palette, the Subversive: La Vie En Rose to create the exaggerated eyeliner looks using Swarovski crystals on top.
The next biggest trend on the runways was Pop of Colour.
Anna Sui went for an ’80s technicolour Twiggy look using vibrant purples, pinks and oranges.
At Bora Aksuthe make-up artists have created a custom lilac shade from pink, white and blue Pigments and Mixing Medium from Mac, used Liptensity Lip Pencil in Galaxy and the eyeshadow in Shadowy Lady around the socket, Stormy Pink Paint Pot on the cheeks line and Liptensity Lipstick in Galaxy Grey on the lips.
The Boss ladies wore a subtle wash of pale pastel blue over the eyes, the rest of the face was kept natural.
Diane Kendal has created a beautiful midnight blue smokey eye for Carolina Herrera using Mac’s Pigment in Naval Blue all over the eyes, Platinum in the inner corners and Modern Twist Kajal Liner in Ocean Liner along the lash line.
Even I could wear this subtle blue eyeliner that was created for Desis Bassol. If you keep every other feature natural, like in the picture below, it will look fresh and modern.
Eli Saab went for a simple yet impactful cobalt bottom lash line keeping the rest of the face clean and natural.
Models got a wash of different pastel colours at Marni.
The colours were much more vibrant at Junko Shimada:
Noon by Noor went for yellow which apparently will be the colour of the season:
Draping is still a thing, shown here at the Philosophy show. Tom Pecheux used natural bronze tones enhanced with highlighter pairing it with a similar shade on the lips.
He created a more natural look with similar tones for Chanel using Chanel’s Le Teint Ultra-Fluid Foundation, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Natural Eyeshadow Palette and Healthy Glow Luminous Multi-Colour Powder for a bronze across the eyes, temples and cheekbones of the models.
Sam and Nic Chapman collaborated on the Lulu Guinness look with Bobbi Brown Pro Artis Amy Conway. This fun look was inspired by the ’70s, the ’80s and the movie Desperately Seeking Susan. They used the Art Stick in Sunset Orange for the draping across the face and Lip Pencil in Sangria with the Art Stick in Sunset Orange on the lips.
Clumpy coloured lashes were paired with a natural-looking face at Dries Van Noten. You can use coloured mascaras or coloured eyeliners to re-create this (the NYX ones are really good for that) if you so wish.
These candy pink and burgundy liners packed a punch at the Dior show, again, the rest of the face was kept natural.
They created a quirky pink-blue combination at Christian Siriano…
…and a pink and purple combination at Peter Pilotto. The inspiration for this look was “disco queen with a rock’n’roll edge”. They used Mac Pigments in different colours to achieve this youthful, modern look pairing it with a pared down base and lips.
The ’80s were the inspiration behind this beautiful smokey eyes-flick combination at Marc Jacobs, the colour of the eyeshadows were different depending on the outfit the models were wearing. This beautiful plum shade was my favourite.
A lived-in burgundy eye and lip duo was created for Katie Gallagher. This has a ’90s grunge feel to me.
Last but not least a colour-pop fun with multiple bright colours around the eyes was designed for Sies Marjan.
That’s a wrap for this week’s trend report, see you in a week when I bring you Part 2. of the Fashion Weeks trend break-down.