To me one the most exciting time of the year in the beauty calendar is Fashion Week season.
Fashion is always looking ahead, this is the time when major trends are established for the next season and hundreds of runway looks provide endless beauty inspiration for all the beauty lovers out there. This years’ fashion week series has seen an unprecedented amount of diversity not only in fashion, make-up and hair but in skin tones, body silhouettes and sizes too. As a big supporter of diversity in the industry, I can’t complain.
There is one common underlying message from the fashion houses this year. Women and girls a are strong and confident like never before and beauty is becoming more and more inclusive. The industry has still a lot of catching up to do but I find that this is an incredibly appealing and hopeful message to many of us in the socially and politically challenged world we live in these days.
There a 6 major trends I will touch on today: graphic eyeliner, natural/glossy/fresh face, glitter/rhinestones, strong lip, pop of colour, smokey eyes.
Graphic eyeliner and the no make-up make-up look ruled the runways in different interpretations.
Diane Kendall did a perfect and precise black liner around the eyes for Marc Jacobs. All the drama was kept in the eye area, the rest of the make-up was fresh and clean.
Val Garland created a super black flick for Erdem but only following the upper lash line:
Karim Rahman at Lanvin and Yadim at Jason Wu went for a laid-back, “unfinished” liner look:
Tom Pecheux at Oscar de la Renta played with adding a pop of colour:
Pat McGrath did a sparkly bold rounded liner look for Tom Ford:
At Rochas, Lucia Pieroni paired natural skin with a playful black line around the eyes.
Versus Versace collaborated with Charlotte Tilbury in creating this fierce, black liner heavy look with nude lips:
Peter Phillips at Fendi went for all-out fun with indigo liner and matching hair pieces:
Here are two looks from J.W. Anderson (make-up by Mark Ryden) and Coach1941 (make-up by Pat McGrath) where the liner is on the lower lash line:
Linda Cantello created a soft, blurred liner for the Giorgio Armani show:
Finally, no fashion week would be fashion week without a fun, out-there liner look or two, here is Thomas Kluyve’s creation for Ashley Williams:
Can you notice the pattern? Nearly all of the liner looks were paired with a toned down, natural, fresh skin and neutral lips.
Our next trend is the no make-up make-up look which is all about clean looking, fresh skin with glossy highlights.
Diane Kendal created beautiful fresh faces, groomed brows and glossy lids for Alexander Wang.
The Balmain show was a huge success and great fun, Val Garland complimented the imaginative, bold designer creations with fresh-looking clean faces and healthy looking glossy lips.
Subtle, barely there highlights and shadows blended to perfection by Pat McGrath were key to achieve the look at Bottega Veneta.
Just look at the beautiful faces at Christopher Kane. Lucia Pieroni used Nars make-up to achieve a perfectly polished look. The art is in the restraint, the result is a perfect harmony of subtle metallic colours and highlights.
The understated elegance of the make-up by Mark Carra let the beautiful patterns of the dresses speak at Etro.
Isabel Marant was all about the classic laid-back French girl chic. Groomed brows, well-looked after skin. Lisa Butler perfectly executed the effortless look of a healthy coplexion.
Alex Box designed this youthful glowy look for Issey Miyake, she is the master of sculpting the face with perfectly placed and blended colours, shadows and highlights.
We could see minimalism at its best at Michael Kors. Dick Page apparently only used concealer just where it was needed.
A little bit of colour was sneaked into the looks of the girls at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini but only to enhance the lips and give them a fresh, juicy look. Tom Pecheux’s brilliance in the artistry of make-up is still undeniable.
Eyegloss will be a big trend next season. Diane Kendal gave her models an extra sparkle by glossing up the eyes at Prabal Gurung.
The girls at Prada looked youthful and natural with strategically placed understated highlights. Pat McGrath is mostly known for her bold makeup looks but gosh, she can do low-key too!
The models at Simone Rocha looked like they stepped out of a painting. Sam Gyant has put the focus on delicately blushing cheeks.
It’s hard to pick a favourite of all the looks but this is definitely one of them. The Victoria Beckham girls looked ethereal with satin highlights and gorgeous clean skin.
Artists surprisingly loved glitter and rhinestones this fashion week season.
The Anna Sui girls looked like fairies crying glitter tears courtesy of Pat McGrath.
Peter Philips played with rhinestones at the Dries van Noten show. Girls wore the tiny gems around the eyes, on the lips even in their hair too.
Kabuki at Jeremy Scott used coloured rhinestones, the looks were made even more fun with bright orange nails and fingers dipped into silver glitter.
Glitter was placed on the lips at Shrimps by Lucy Burt, why not?
This is how you make glitter look cool: at Topshop Unique Lynsey Alexander smudged pink and green sparkle around the girls’ eyes for a rock ‘n’ roll touch.
The vintage style hairdos were paired with lashings and lashings of glitter on the eyes by Katsuya Kamo at Undercover.
Nearly every season we see an incarnation of a red lip:
Charlotte Tilbury evoked the 1940s Hollywood at Alice Temperley with summery, warm, orange-red lips and glossy skin.
The decadent, rich look created by Pat McGrath at Dolce & Gabbana was finished off with exquisite berry shade lips.
Helmut Lang opted for an ombre pout.
Tom Pecheux blurred the red liplines at Max Mara.
Thomas Kluyver at Sies Marjan played with the overdrawn lip line idea. Is it cool or does this look more like sore lips? You decide!
Call me old-fashioned but I think I might prefer the beautifully ethereal, delicate and traditional red lip look at Badgley Mischka.
We can always trust that all the Chanel shows will blow us away with inventive beauty looks, they didn’t disappoint this season either. Mixing trends they went for bright blue eyes and bright red lips paired with a strong blusher. Who said emphasizing all features was wrong? Tom Pecheux was responsible for this exaggerated ’80s look (but it wouldn’t be wrong to say it looks ’50s inspired either).
There was a little pop of colour on the runways too, mostly pastel washes of colour and bright blues. It seems the colour blue is here to stay.
At Matty Bovan Hung Vanngo created a bold, graphic look with electric blue.
ADetacher had a soft wash of pink on the eyelids.
A delicate rosy shade on the eyes complemented the floral designs at Brock by Gucci Westman.
James Kaliardos used delicate blended colours to go with the casual style collection at Fenty x Puma.
Pat McGrath’s makeup creations ruled all the trend categories, see her rocking the colour blue at the Marni show below.
At Missoni, exquisite pastels were oozing feminity and perfectly complemented the various busy patterns of the dresses.
Uzo at Novis used Nars makeup to give the girls a beautiful wash of yellow on the eyelids.
The girls rocked a softly blended copper flick by Romy Soleimani at Rachel Comey.
A wash of pink and yellow was blended into the brows at Self-Portrait by Erin Parsons.
Pat McGrath gave everyone a masterclass on draping with pink hues and highlighters at Valentino’s.
Last but not least a few smokey eye looks popped up too mostly evoking the ’90s with neutral monochromatic looks, soft contours and nude lips.
Using neutral tonal colours Gucci Westman at Marchesa created a sophisticated smokey eye.
The girls at Tommy Hilfiger looked fierce with a bold black smokey eye with hard edges courtesy of Mark Carrasquillo.
Diane Kendal gave the girls at Tory Birch a warm mustard coloured smoke with black liner in the upper and lower waterline.
Pat McGrath at Versace went all ’90s with neutral taupe-brown smoky eyes and soft contours.
Last but not least we had another tribute to the ’90s with dark smoky eyes and nude lips evoking the supermodel era at Julian McDonald’s.
It seems the ’90s are still very present as an inspiration in both make-up and hair. One of the best examples was the look by Tom Pecheux at Moschino. The girls wore proper 90’s haircuts, big brows, big lashes and lined neutral lips paired with flawless satin skin.
I hope you enjoyed this summery of the beauty trends. To finish off this post let me share my two highlights of the fashion weeks:
Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen joining Donatella Versace on the runway of the Versace show to George Michael’s Freedom evoking the legendary 1991 show where the supers were walking arm in arm while George Michael was in the audience had me a bit teary. The unique moment was marking the 20th anniversary of Gianni’s death was moving and powerful.
The cherry on top? Cindy’s daughter Kaia Gerber reaching runway appropriate age and doing all major runways at 16, even headlining the Chanel show. Her debut was a huge success and no doubt she will make her mum proud in the future.